Gordonia penangensis: A Treasure on Keppel Island

Standing wild and free on the northern face of Keppel Island is a veritable grove of native trees of undisputed rarity and antiquity. It is really a miracle how they could have survived against the relentless pace of urban and economic development engulfing them from all sides. Yet they did.

Tall and brave I see them now as soldiers defending their fort on a knoll facing ultra-modern Reflections by the Bay in defiance. True courage, like flowering, comes spontaneous and pure and lives forever. It may wilt but never die. The spirit lives and re-appears again and again.

Finding Gordonia penangensis and finding it flowering thus is metaphorically so profound. It is as rare as courage standing up to the threat of extinction from its native soil. We must stand on their side and fight the good fight.

I am glad I came on Sunday (15 Jan 2012) to explore. It is my first visit to the island though I knew it since 1981 as a young navy man called to the Fleet at Pulau Brani. Back then, Keppel Island was known as Pulau Hantu. Few would have known there were actually 2 Pulau Hantu's in Singapore. But we did.

It was just a tiny island with a shack or two and a small untidy wharf on its southern shore. Over time it grew a little bigger and now completely transformed into a playground for both the rich and poor, young and old. I am glad its forest persisted. We ought to treasure it and keep for good.

To those interested in history, geography and botany of Singapore, I present you some old maps (below) which bear the old name, and also a hearty roll call of plant names proudly served to you as a first flora of Keppel Island. May these soldiers live forever in our heart and mind.

First Flora of Keppel Island listed right below of this blogpost. Notable find in bold and exceptionally significant in red.

Northern shore of Keppel Island (indicated by black arrows) where the grove of trees are located. The new coastal walkway runs along the yellow line.

The pre-transformation look of Keppel Island.

Old map no.1

Old map no. 2

Old map no.3

First Flora of Keppel Island

Acacia auriculiformis

Acacia mangium

Adenanthera bicolor

Adenanthera pavonina

Alstonia angustifolia

Bhesa robusta

Buchanania arborescens

Calophyllum inophyllum

Canthium confertum

Carallia brachiata

Casuarina equisetifolia

Cerbera sp.

Champereia manillana

Cinnamomum iners

Clerodendrum laevifolium

Commersonia bartramia

Diospyros lanceifolia

Dracaena maingayi

Fagraea fragrans

Ficus grossularioides

Garcinia sp.

Gordonia penangensis

Guioa pubescens

Gynochthodes sublanceolata

Indorouchera griffithiana

Ipomoea pes-tigridis

Lasianthus cyanocarpus

Litsea elliptica

Macaranga heynei

Melastoma malabathricum

Memecylon edule var ovatum

Morinda umbellata

Oncospermum tigilarium

Palaquium obovata

Pouteria obovata

Pteris vittata

Rapanea porteriana

Rhodomyrtus tomentosa

Rodamnia cinearia

Sapium discolor

Scaevola sericea

Streblus elongatus

Symplocos adenophylla

Syzygium glaucum

Syzygium grande

Syzygium palembanicum

Syzygium zeylanicum

Tetracera indica

A Light Above Pedra Branca

There is a Light
above a Rock
called Pedra Branca
and I hope it will burn forever bright.

Burning, I hope, not so much a guiding star for sailors, but for the people I belong to: Singaporeans.

Indeed, for me, Horsburgh Lighthouse, stands out not so much as an engineering feat than as a monument; a monument to the people who built it. They were our first dream team ever - a team comprising none other than the Malays, Indians, Chinese and Caucasians. And you know, wrought they did their finest mettle against the 'first test' to build a common light together. It was, as I found out, a task exceedingly difficult and seemingly impossible in so many ways.


With only sail-driven ships, raw human muscles and simplest of wooden rigs, planks and lashings, they transferred and hoisted huge pre-hewn granite blocks (doughnut-shaped sections originating from Pulau Ubin) onto steep treacherous rocks against the rough open seas and getting caught out often in the middle of tempestuous storms tossed by wind and waves, or tormented by the blistering sun otherwise.


However, the most difficult of all is the barrier of mistrust and misunderstanding confronted by the different ethnic groups working together in tight confines for the very first time. Fortunately, the situation managed to resolved unto itself (after some very bitter start); a job had to be done, and it finally got done. The final capping of the finished product must have been a very sweet moment for every hand on deck and rock, I can imagine.


In year 2002, I first learned in detail of the struggle of this first dream team in a neat little booklet entitled "The Horsburgh Lighthouse" by John Hall-Jones. My heart naturally went out to the workers, many of whom did not even know what they were in for and left with no choice marooned on a rock.

John's writing, in particular, left a big gaping void that could otherwise have contributed to our understanding of the workers' predicament and their psychology as a migrant worker looking for a better life or that of a convict worker hoping for a much cherished pardon. It was obviously a book much-ado with Thomson the man and the lighthouse he designed and built. John's characterization of the workers could have been less harsh at times, I felt, had he understood how no one (given a choice) would want to put one's life at risk for a job.


So it was with great personal satisfaction that I finally found (in the Epilogue) the photo and description of a silver farewell testimonial presented to Thomson 'by a group of leading citizens of Singapore' that I felt honoured the sweat and blood of these humble workers themselves, albeit in a very subtle yet respectable manner. We will never know who designed this beautifully intricate epergne, but I bet he certainly felt in his heart (like I did) the injustice of the underdogs and gave them back the credit they deserved.

My Own Epilogue

All this searching came about in 2002 because having been told of stories of indentured workers working the quarries at Pulau Ubin, I visited some of their unmarked graves. I remembered feeling very sad seeing them for the first time. They were graves with no names; unmarked gravestones of poor souls who died alone and whose last thought must have been the home across the seven seas they never got back to. I had made a promise then to write something in their remembrance. This I do here. To the indentured workers and convict labourers, we owe you lots.

In conclusion, whatever false start the first dream team have had, they certainly pulled themselves together quickly to weather the storm and conquered positively with resolution and endurance. They must have learned a lot working together and I believe we can learn a lot from them too. It is more than a lighthouse we inherited; it is a light that will burn forever bright to guide us in our multiracial society today.

Footnote: If we can spend tens of millions obtaining sunken Tang Dynasty Treasures to depict the history of our maritime trade, why not seriously consider repossessing this little silver of burning light for our future generations. I believe, it is presently with the descendants of John Turnbull Thomson in New Zealand.

Other information: Mok Ly Yng on "Horsburgh Lighthouse: 160th Anniversary" (Sat 15 Oct 2011)

Description of the Silver Epergne in the booklet: Before he departed a group of leading citizens of Singapore banded together to present him with a silver testimonial in appreciation of his service to the Settlement. A unique and intricate silver epergne was fashioned by a master of the craft and presented to Thomson on the eve of his departure in August 1853. Significantly it was engraved with etchings of the Pedra Branca rock and the Horsburgh Lighthouse and surrounded with figures to represent the Chinese, Indians and Malays who had worked under him.

Tree Felling: The Saddest Sight in CIAG (City In A Garden)

This is one of the most vibrant part of Singapore City - the lively busy junction at Singapore Management University (SMU) where trees gracefully line both Bencoolen Street and Bras Basah Road. This is the 'happening' place - a happy place, I must add - where students, young people and tourists mingle, have a great time with food, museum visits, attend school and churches and going to cinema and open-air concerts with family and friends.

But what do we find here today - 26 August 2011 - eve of our Presidential Election 2011?

SHOCKING - 7 large tree stumps of felled Yellow Flame Trees lined in a death row along Bencoolen Street for the whole world to see!

That's not all. If you are as familiar as I am with trees in Singapore, you will know that 3 more big trees fringing Hotel Rendevous (white building; below photo) have also been cut and cleared of almost all evidence on the opposite side of the street.

It is simply the saddest sight in CIAG (City In A Garden) and it hurts.

Each stump a face of destruction, a real bad education, that immediately bring up images of deforestation, climate change, and - not by a long stretch - a worse possible counter- advertisement for CIAG's promotion of urban greenery and ecology. Bencoolen Street is so treeless, ugly and hot now.

But what awaits the fate of the remaining trees fringing Plaza By The Park along Bras Basah Road?

Will they be felled too?

The common man in the street needs some answers. It hurts, really hurt to the core! Why, o why did we cut these lovely benign trees that is so much a part of everything beautiful here? WHY? : (